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How One Family is Pulling Saltwater Taffy Back into Local Food Culture

By Liz Miller  Photos Judd Demaline

The King family has ruled concessions at state and county fairs far and wide for the past 30 years.

The sights and sounds at HerrinFesta Italiana, an annual town fair held in Herrin, Illinois, are familiar and exhilarating: the skid and wallop of bumper cars colliding, the blue and yellow neon lights of the Tilt-A-Whirl illuminating neighboring carnival games, Ferris wheel cars climbing upward and glittering against the softly setting sun. The air is perfumed with deep-fried dough and freshly spun sugar, and the aroma of buttery popcorn is so thick you can almost taste it.READ MORE